The HL-EL530 is the latest headlight from Cateye. Itis an improved version of the HL-EL500. The new 530 has 1/3 more candlepower at Cateye's rating than the EL500. It also is rated for 90 hours use on 4 AA batteries. The EL500 was rated for 30 hours on 4 AA batteries.
I have used this light and it is absolutely awesome. 5 to 10 years ago we would only get 150 candle power and 6 hoursout of the Halogen lights. The new LED lighting technology has gepletely changed riding bikes at night.
Zbikenut
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Hub Bearing How To Repair/Install, Mazda Miata
We found these instructions online and posted them here hoping they will help. We are not the author of these instructions and we do not claim that these will be exact to your vehicle, however they should give you a very good idea if you think you want to tackle this job yourself or not.
Description: The front hub/bearing assembly on an NA model Miata is a one-piece unit consisting of the hub/lugs with the bearings pre-installed and greased. The assembly is typically considered non-serviceable, and you replace the unit when the bearings fail. Symptoms: In my case, my 1990 Miata developed a thunk-thunk-thunk type sound on the front right wheel while driving. It sounded very similar to driving over a concrete highway with the relief cuts in the road - just a repetitive thunking sound. The sound got louder when making left hand turns, and pretty much disappeared when making right hand turns. Based on forum searches, I determined it must be a failing bearing causing the issue. I had about 118,000 miles on the odometer when I did this service. Parts: New Hub/Bearing Assembly - Purchase for $69.99 from:AutoPartsDirectToYou.ge on okay. Get two if you're doing both sides and shop around - different parts stores had wildly different prices. New Hub Nut - About $5 from the dealer - Get two if you're doing both sides. I opted to reuse mine, but a new one is suggested since the nut is deformed with a punch into a keyway on the spindle. Repeated use of a used nut could over-fatigue the fastener. Wheel Bearing Grease (for spindle) High-Temp Grease (for brake parts) Anti-Seize gepound (for lug nuts) ** If you need new brake pads, now is a great time to do this service as well since you will have everything apart to do the brake work. Tools: Car Jack/Lug Wrench and Jack Stands 14mm Socket (for lower caliper bolt and caliper bracket bolts) 17mm Socket (for upper caliper bolt) Length of wire (for wiring the caliper out of the way) Hammer (for knocking out hub nut cover and hitting the punch/chisel). Slotted screw driver (for hub nut cover) Punch/Chisel (for hub nut tab) 29mm Socket (for hub nut) Cheater-bar or pipe (to help remove highly-torqued hub nut) Torque Wrench that can measure 120 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs C-Clamp or Channel Pliers (something to use to gepress the disc brake piston)
Removal and installation procedure for Mazda miata front wheel hub bearing assembly:
Removal and Installation:First, loosen the lug nuts of the front wheel while it is still on the ground so you don't have to fight the spinning wheel while it is jacked up. Next, jack up the side of the car you will be replacing the hub on. Even though you won't be under the vehicle, put the car on a jackstand for stability since you could be shaking the car a bit working with the tight bolts in later steps.
Remove the lug nuts and wheel, and then remove the upper and lower slider bolts for the caliper. The lower bolt is 14mm and the upper bolt is 17mm. The red arrows point to where the caliper bolts were (the caliper and caliper bolts have already been removed in this photo,2 photos down).
Using a piece of wire, hang the caliper out of the way with it - do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. The lower control arm makes a nice place to set the caliper, but chances are you'll knock it off, so make sure you wire it to the coil or other suspension geponent so no stress is placed on the brake hose.
Remove the spring clips that hold the pads away from the caliper, and remove the brake pads.
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle assembly. Both of these are 14mm bolts, and the yellow arrows point to them. Once the caliper bracket is off, you will be able to remove the disc rotor (up until now it has been loosely attached to the hub assembly since the lug nuts hold it tight).
Next, use a slotted screwdriver and hammer to pry the cover that is over the hub nut. This can be in there tight, so it may take a bit of persuasion to get out.
Using a metal punch or chisel, knock out the indentation on the hub nut that is sticking into the spindle keyway.
Slip a pipe over the handle of your socket to get the leverage needed to easily remove the hub nut (or use some equivalent method). The hub nut needs a 29mm socket to remove it. I used a four-foot pipe and my five year old could have removed the nut with that much leverage
Remove the old hub/bearing assembly from the spindle. Wipe off all old grease and any debris from the spindle, and apply some new bearing grease to its surface.
Here's a picture of the shiny new hub and bearing assembly.
Place the new hub part onto the spindle, and screw down the new hub nut. Using a torque wrench, torque the hub nut at 125 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs. It is pretty important to get this nut torqued down - if it is too loose pre-mature bearing failure can occur. Plus, this nut is the main mechanism for holding the wheel on the car. Since I reused my hub nut, the part that was indented lined back up with the keyway on the spindle. For me, this was a crosscheck that I was doing things right.
Using your punch or chisel, place a dent in the hub nut rim so it protrudes into the spindle keyway. This will prevent the nut from loosening on the spindle. Also, replace the hub nut cover removed earlier
Reassembly is basically the reverse of what we've done so far. So, place the disc rotor back on the hub and bolt the caliper bracket back onto the suspension. The caliper bracket bolts are torqued at 36 ft-lbs to 51 ft-lbs. Grease the 'ears' on the brake pads with high-temperature grease meant for brake parts, and place those back in the guides in the caliper bracket. Also, don't forget to put the pad springs back on the pads to hold them away from the rotor.
** If you need new brake pads, now is a great time to do this service.
Purchase Premium standard brake pads for $29.99 or Ceramic brake pads for $49.99 from:AutoPartsDirectToYou.ge on okay
Next we'll have to put the caliper back over the pads. It is a bit easier if you gepress the caliper piston. So first open the brake fluid reservoir under the hood...
...Now use some channel pliers or a c-clamp to push the piston back into its housing. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal around the piston. You can even use the specific piston-tool for this if you're feeling fancy. Once this is done, place the caliper over the pads, and put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir under the hood - you want the fluid exposed to moisture in the air the lease amount of time possible.
Now clean off the caliper slider bolts of any old grease/debris and re-apply more high-temp brake grease. Tighten those bolts back into their respective slots. The caliper bolts are torqued at 58 ft-lbs to 65 ft-lbs.
Place the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts in a cross pattern at 66 ft-lbs to 86 ft-lbs.
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Repeat for the other side.
Description: The front hub/bearing assembly on an NA model Miata is a one-piece unit consisting of the hub/lugs with the bearings pre-installed and greased. The assembly is typically considered non-serviceable, and you replace the unit when the bearings fail. Symptoms: In my case, my 1990 Miata developed a thunk-thunk-thunk type sound on the front right wheel while driving. It sounded very similar to driving over a concrete highway with the relief cuts in the road - just a repetitive thunking sound. The sound got louder when making left hand turns, and pretty much disappeared when making right hand turns. Based on forum searches, I determined it must be a failing bearing causing the issue. I had about 118,000 miles on the odometer when I did this service. Parts: New Hub/Bearing Assembly - Purchase for $69.99 from:AutoPartsDirectToYou.ge on okay. Get two if you're doing both sides and shop around - different parts stores had wildly different prices. New Hub Nut - About $5 from the dealer - Get two if you're doing both sides. I opted to reuse mine, but a new one is suggested since the nut is deformed with a punch into a keyway on the spindle. Repeated use of a used nut could over-fatigue the fastener. Wheel Bearing Grease (for spindle) High-Temp Grease (for brake parts) Anti-Seize gepound (for lug nuts) ** If you need new brake pads, now is a great time to do this service as well since you will have everything apart to do the brake work. Tools: Car Jack/Lug Wrench and Jack Stands 14mm Socket (for lower caliper bolt and caliper bracket bolts) 17mm Socket (for upper caliper bolt) Length of wire (for wiring the caliper out of the way) Hammer (for knocking out hub nut cover and hitting the punch/chisel). Slotted screw driver (for hub nut cover) Punch/Chisel (for hub nut tab) 29mm Socket (for hub nut) Cheater-bar or pipe (to help remove highly-torqued hub nut) Torque Wrench that can measure 120 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs C-Clamp or Channel Pliers (something to use to gepress the disc brake piston)
Removal and installation procedure for Mazda miata front wheel hub bearing assembly:
Removal and Installation:First, loosen the lug nuts of the front wheel while it is still on the ground so you don't have to fight the spinning wheel while it is jacked up. Next, jack up the side of the car you will be replacing the hub on. Even though you won't be under the vehicle, put the car on a jackstand for stability since you could be shaking the car a bit working with the tight bolts in later steps.
Remove the lug nuts and wheel, and then remove the upper and lower slider bolts for the caliper. The lower bolt is 14mm and the upper bolt is 17mm. The red arrows point to where the caliper bolts were (the caliper and caliper bolts have already been removed in this photo,2 photos down).
Using a piece of wire, hang the caliper out of the way with it - do not let the caliper hang by the brake line. The lower control arm makes a nice place to set the caliper, but chances are you'll knock it off, so make sure you wire it to the coil or other suspension geponent so no stress is placed on the brake hose.
Remove the spring clips that hold the pads away from the caliper, and remove the brake pads.
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle assembly. Both of these are 14mm bolts, and the yellow arrows point to them. Once the caliper bracket is off, you will be able to remove the disc rotor (up until now it has been loosely attached to the hub assembly since the lug nuts hold it tight).
Next, use a slotted screwdriver and hammer to pry the cover that is over the hub nut. This can be in there tight, so it may take a bit of persuasion to get out.
Using a metal punch or chisel, knock out the indentation on the hub nut that is sticking into the spindle keyway.
Slip a pipe over the handle of your socket to get the leverage needed to easily remove the hub nut (or use some equivalent method). The hub nut needs a 29mm socket to remove it. I used a four-foot pipe and my five year old could have removed the nut with that much leverage
Remove the old hub/bearing assembly from the spindle. Wipe off all old grease and any debris from the spindle, and apply some new bearing grease to its surface.
Here's a picture of the shiny new hub and bearing assembly.
Place the new hub part onto the spindle, and screw down the new hub nut. Using a torque wrench, torque the hub nut at 125 ft-lbs to 150 ft-lbs. It is pretty important to get this nut torqued down - if it is too loose pre-mature bearing failure can occur. Plus, this nut is the main mechanism for holding the wheel on the car. Since I reused my hub nut, the part that was indented lined back up with the keyway on the spindle. For me, this was a crosscheck that I was doing things right.
Using your punch or chisel, place a dent in the hub nut rim so it protrudes into the spindle keyway. This will prevent the nut from loosening on the spindle. Also, replace the hub nut cover removed earlier
Reassembly is basically the reverse of what we've done so far. So, place the disc rotor back on the hub and bolt the caliper bracket back onto the suspension. The caliper bracket bolts are torqued at 36 ft-lbs to 51 ft-lbs. Grease the 'ears' on the brake pads with high-temperature grease meant for brake parts, and place those back in the guides in the caliper bracket. Also, don't forget to put the pad springs back on the pads to hold them away from the rotor.
** If you need new brake pads, now is a great time to do this service.
Purchase Premium standard brake pads for $29.99 or Ceramic brake pads for $49.99 from:AutoPartsDirectToYou.ge on okay
Next we'll have to put the caliper back over the pads. It is a bit easier if you gepress the caliper piston. So first open the brake fluid reservoir under the hood...
...Now use some channel pliers or a c-clamp to push the piston back into its housing. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal around the piston. You can even use the specific piston-tool for this if you're feeling fancy. Once this is done, place the caliper over the pads, and put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir under the hood - you want the fluid exposed to moisture in the air the lease amount of time possible.
Now clean off the caliper slider bolts of any old grease/debris and re-apply more high-temp brake grease. Tighten those bolts back into their respective slots. The caliper bolts are torqued at 58 ft-lbs to 65 ft-lbs.
Place the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts in a cross pattern at 66 ft-lbs to 86 ft-lbs.
Please rate our guide!!!
View Other Instructional Guides
Our okay Store
View Our Feedback
Repeat for the other side.
U.S. Coin Identification Photo Guide - Small Cents
United States Small Cents
(1856 - Date)
The act of February 21, 1957, provided for the coinage of the new copper-nickel small cent. It also called for Spanish and Mexican coins and old copper cents and half cents in circulation to be brought in and exchanged for U.S. silver coins and the new cents.
Flying Eagle (1856 - 1858)
The Flying eagle cent was only produced for 3 years, with the 1956 date being the rarest having a mintage of only 2000 pieces. Made in copper-nickel and all produced at the Philadelphia Mint.
Indian Head (1958 - 1909)
The Indian Head cent is actually a representation of Liberty wearing an Indian headdress, not an actual Indian. The 1859 dated cent has anlaurel wreath reverse with out a shield. Beginning in 1860 the reverse was revised with a oak wreath and a shield at the top center. Indian head cents from 1859 - 1864 were made with Copper-Nickel. 1864 - 1909 the cents were made in Bronze. All made at the Philadelphia Mint except the 1908S and 1909S at San Francisco.
Lincoln Head - Wheat Reverse (1909 - 1958)
Victor D. Brenner designed this cent, which was issued to gememorate the 100th anniversary of Lincoln's Birth. The designer's initials (V.D.B.) appear on the reverse of a limited quanity of cents dated1909. The initials were restored, in 1918, to the obverse side on Lincoln's shoulder. Made in Bronze from 1909 to 1958, except 1943 which were made of Steel.
Lincoln Wheat - Steel Variety (1943 only)
Owing to a shortage of copper during WWII, the Treasury Department resorted to the use of zinc-coated steel for cents. All varieties of the Lincoln Wheat reverse cent were produced in Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco.
Lincoln Head - Memorial Reverse (1959 - Date)
Frank Gasparro designed the Lincoln Memorial reverse, which was introduced in 1959 on the 150th anniversary of Lincoln's Death. Theobverse remained unchanged. Made of mostly Copper from 1959 - 1982. And made in Copper-Plated Zinc from 1982 - present.
Currently there is a bill in congress to change the Cent's design in 2009, the 100th anniversary of the Lincoln cent.
(1856 - Date)
The act of February 21, 1957, provided for the coinage of the new copper-nickel small cent. It also called for Spanish and Mexican coins and old copper cents and half cents in circulation to be brought in and exchanged for U.S. silver coins and the new cents.
Flying Eagle (1856 - 1858)
The Flying eagle cent was only produced for 3 years, with the 1956 date being the rarest having a mintage of only 2000 pieces. Made in copper-nickel and all produced at the Philadelphia Mint.
Indian Head (1958 - 1909)
The Indian Head cent is actually a representation of Liberty wearing an Indian headdress, not an actual Indian. The 1859 dated cent has anlaurel wreath reverse with out a shield. Beginning in 1860 the reverse was revised with a oak wreath and a shield at the top center. Indian head cents from 1859 - 1864 were made with Copper-Nickel. 1864 - 1909 the cents were made in Bronze. All made at the Philadelphia Mint except the 1908S and 1909S at San Francisco.
Lincoln Head - Wheat Reverse (1909 - 1958)
Victor D. Brenner designed this cent, which was issued to gememorate the 100th anniversary of Lincoln's Birth. The designer's initials (V.D.B.) appear on the reverse of a limited quanity of cents dated1909. The initials were restored, in 1918, to the obverse side on Lincoln's shoulder. Made in Bronze from 1909 to 1958, except 1943 which were made of Steel.
Lincoln Wheat - Steel Variety (1943 only)
Owing to a shortage of copper during WWII, the Treasury Department resorted to the use of zinc-coated steel for cents. All varieties of the Lincoln Wheat reverse cent were produced in Philadelphia, Denver and San Francisco.
Lincoln Head - Memorial Reverse (1959 - Date)
Frank Gasparro designed the Lincoln Memorial reverse, which was introduced in 1959 on the 150th anniversary of Lincoln's Death. Theobverse remained unchanged. Made of mostly Copper from 1959 - 1982. And made in Copper-Plated Zinc from 1982 - present.
Currently there is a bill in congress to change the Cent's design in 2009, the 100th anniversary of the Lincoln cent.
Little White Lies You May Need To Tell To Sell on s
I've been at this on a part time basis for about a year now and have learned a few things that may be helpful to new sellers.
I am in the business of selling used clothing.
WHITE LIES
When I first started out people would ask where I got my inventory and I would tell them. People at some of the invetory sources would ask what I was doing with all the items I was purchasing, I told a few of them. Yes... I know... not smart. But you have to understand something about me.
I spent 5 years of my life studying to begee a catholic nun, lying, even white lies are not something I've ever been gefortable with!
However little white lies are now part of my business. See, I have expanded my business and therefore have expanded my sources for inventory. I get asked ALL the time what I do with all that STUFF.
The story I have gee up with is that I buy the clothes and donate them to various projects. The way to rectify this "lie" is that I do infact donate items that I am unable to sell on okay.
SELLING YOUR ITEMS
Enough about the LIES. One place you may never lie is in describing your item! Be as accurate as you possibly can. It is best to give a full inspection of your item (especially true of used clothing). You will then want to measure your items (especially jeans and pants). This will save you a lot of time that you would spend in answering questions from your prospective buyers.
Most okay buyers are a joy to deal with. Out of over 1,000 transactions I've only had one or two bad eggs. You will want to add some terms and conditions and clear information about your shipping in each and every auction you list to protect yourself.
STARTING PRICE
I have done a lot of trial and error with starting prices. In the early days I was listing everything at .99 to save on the okay listing fees. I found that several of my items simply went for .99! Other went for $20 and $30.
After dealing with these let downs for a while I decided to start my items out at $3.99 and found that the same amount of auctions that went for just .99 were going for $3.99 as well. Much better to pay an extra dime listing fee to get two extra dollars in return!
FAIR SHIPPING
In the very begining I lost a lot of money on shipping because I had no scale and no clue about what I was doing as it related to the United States Post Office! My salvation was a very helpful postal clerk who educated me my first month or two of serious work on okay. He introduced me to the flat rate envelope and the flat rate box. This is a great way for a new seller to avoid the expense of buying a scale! For the most part I still sell items that fit either in the flat rate envelope or flat rate box.
I have gone the route of over charging on shipping to make up for poor final bids. I have been the new seller who lost a lot of money by undercharging on shipping.
I have learned the best practice is to start your auction at the minimum price you really want to get for it and charge accurate shipping with a very minimal handling fee.
This just feels better for your buyer and for you in the long run.
FREE SHIPPING SUPPLIES:
I only ship Priority Mail because the supplies are FREE! If you charge accurate shipping this is a win win for you and the buyer. They pay a little bit more, get their items fast, and you don't have to pay for your envelopes and boxes. All you have to pay for is tape!!
DELIVERY CONFIRMATION WILL SAVE YOU HEARTACHE!
I now ship all my items from home using Paypal. If you do this the delivery confirmation service is free. This is something that is a TOTAL MUST in my book you gotta get a confirmation number for your own peace of mind. There are a handful of dishonest folks out there who will say they didn't get the item and file a geplaint with Paypal and they will have your ITEM AND YOUR MONEY! It is worth the peace of mind and protection for you!
That's my guide. I may add more too it later. If this helped you in any way please click yes below!
I am in the business of selling used clothing.
WHITE LIES
When I first started out people would ask where I got my inventory and I would tell them. People at some of the invetory sources would ask what I was doing with all the items I was purchasing, I told a few of them. Yes... I know... not smart. But you have to understand something about me.
I spent 5 years of my life studying to begee a catholic nun, lying, even white lies are not something I've ever been gefortable with!
However little white lies are now part of my business. See, I have expanded my business and therefore have expanded my sources for inventory. I get asked ALL the time what I do with all that STUFF.
The story I have gee up with is that I buy the clothes and donate them to various projects. The way to rectify this "lie" is that I do infact donate items that I am unable to sell on okay.
SELLING YOUR ITEMS
Enough about the LIES. One place you may never lie is in describing your item! Be as accurate as you possibly can. It is best to give a full inspection of your item (especially true of used clothing). You will then want to measure your items (especially jeans and pants). This will save you a lot of time that you would spend in answering questions from your prospective buyers.
Most okay buyers are a joy to deal with. Out of over 1,000 transactions I've only had one or two bad eggs. You will want to add some terms and conditions and clear information about your shipping in each and every auction you list to protect yourself.
STARTING PRICE
I have done a lot of trial and error with starting prices. In the early days I was listing everything at .99 to save on the okay listing fees. I found that several of my items simply went for .99! Other went for $20 and $30.
After dealing with these let downs for a while I decided to start my items out at $3.99 and found that the same amount of auctions that went for just .99 were going for $3.99 as well. Much better to pay an extra dime listing fee to get two extra dollars in return!
FAIR SHIPPING
In the very begining I lost a lot of money on shipping because I had no scale and no clue about what I was doing as it related to the United States Post Office! My salvation was a very helpful postal clerk who educated me my first month or two of serious work on okay. He introduced me to the flat rate envelope and the flat rate box. This is a great way for a new seller to avoid the expense of buying a scale! For the most part I still sell items that fit either in the flat rate envelope or flat rate box.
I have gone the route of over charging on shipping to make up for poor final bids. I have been the new seller who lost a lot of money by undercharging on shipping.
I have learned the best practice is to start your auction at the minimum price you really want to get for it and charge accurate shipping with a very minimal handling fee.
This just feels better for your buyer and for you in the long run.
FREE SHIPPING SUPPLIES:
I only ship Priority Mail because the supplies are FREE! If you charge accurate shipping this is a win win for you and the buyer. They pay a little bit more, get their items fast, and you don't have to pay for your envelopes and boxes. All you have to pay for is tape!!
DELIVERY CONFIRMATION WILL SAVE YOU HEARTACHE!
I now ship all my items from home using Paypal. If you do this the delivery confirmation service is free. This is something that is a TOTAL MUST in my book you gotta get a confirmation number for your own peace of mind. There are a handful of dishonest folks out there who will say they didn't get the item and file a geplaint with Paypal and they will have your ITEM AND YOUR MONEY! It is worth the peace of mind and protection for you!
That's my guide. I may add more too it later. If this helped you in any way please click yes below!
Linux- Some truth about the subject
Concerning "Linux", you should know a few things. And you should be pointed in the right direction in order to learn everything you need to know. There are myths and there are truths. You be the judge. Linux is about Freedom and knowledge in a large way. Linux can be very stable, secure, fun, flexible, and free. Like anything, you will hear about the bad and the good. Other people's experiences are very valuable and should be shared freely, most of the time :). Knowledge is power, and sometimes someone else's ignorance.First I'd like to say that I have read several of the "Linux" guides in the "Guide" section here at okay (at the time of original writing). They are what inspired me to give you this guide. Several of them are titled "...avoid scams...", based on "Linuxes" (should be 'Linux distributions'). I agree with a lot of what they say, in fact I can't disagree with too much -only elaborate. I don't know if any of these (offers for Linux discs) really are scams or not, but I can tell you what I do know starting with the pure fact that you can use and enjoy Linux
Plantronics CS50
This headset is great. It easily goes 300 feet away from the base, through exterior walls too. It's quite gefortable (I use the over the ear mount as pictured, but there are several other attachments that it gees with). Battery life is pretty good.
I'd like to see an easier to use mute button on it, but once you get the hang of it, it's not bad.
Having the optional HL10 handset lifter makes this even better.
Note that you need a corded phone for this to work. It connects between a standard phone base and the cord going to the phone's handset. It won't work with cordless phones.
Review courtesy of Anchor Consulting
I'd like to see an easier to use mute button on it, but once you get the hang of it, it's not bad.
Having the optional HL10 handset lifter makes this even better.
Note that you need a corded phone for this to work. It connects between a standard phone base and the cord going to the phone's handset. It won't work with cordless phones.
Review courtesy of Anchor Consulting
Buyer Beware Vintage Hamilton Beach Malt Mixers
I found the review by ronstowe to be very informative and accurate.
I would like to add an additional caution. I recently purchased a model 30 mixer which had one of the black plastic brush cap broken off exposing the brass screw underneath. I plugged it in and gave it a try. It was not running but I put my hand on the motor and barely contacted the exposed brass piece and I got a small but memorable jolt.
I repaired it and wondered what would have happened if my other hand was well grounded???
I followed ronstowe's advice and rewired the mixer adding a ground wire (3 prong) plug. It may not look original but it's safer.
I would like to add an additional caution. I recently purchased a model 30 mixer which had one of the black plastic brush cap broken off exposing the brass screw underneath. I plugged it in and gave it a try. It was not running but I put my hand on the motor and barely contacted the exposed brass piece and I got a small but memorable jolt.
I repaired it and wondered what would have happened if my other hand was well grounded???
I followed ronstowe's advice and rewired the mixer adding a ground wire (3 prong) plug. It may not look original but it's safer.
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